Melbourne/Darwin

The past four days have been reminiscent of Dante's descent into the inferno. Our level of suffering was not based on sins we have committed, though I am sure that there are many. Rather it is based upon the central Canadian inability to withstand heat, particularly heat combined with high humidity. Consider our case.
We left Christchurch New Zealand, and arrived in Melbourne, Australia, at 8:00 am. Our flight to Darwin was scheduled for 10:15 in the evening. Troopers that we are, we decided to take the Skybus into the city and spend a few hours exploring. Having left a comfortable 26 degrees, we did not anticipate the impact of the 33 degree temperature in Melbourne. The day began well enough with a late-breakfast in a well-shaded alleyway. The place was busy with a lot of interesting characters, good food, and an ambiance of good spirited Sunday activity. This was followed by a ride on the Circle Tram, a free of charge tram ride that introduced tourists to the city. Crowded and hot, we began to feel the impact of the heat, so we decided that it would make sense to stop and visit the "Melbourne Goal" which was famous for its many hangings up until 1977.
The Old Melbourne Gaol was built in 1841 and until hangings were taken out of the penal system, 135 people were hanged, including the infamous Ned Kelly. You may remember the movies with Mick Jagger or Orlando Bloom playing Ned Kelly, the great Australia bushranger and folk hero. He wore an iron suit and eluded the law for many years. Other victims were often less guilty than Ned, and many who were hung have since been given posthumous pardons. Lucky them! You will notice the constable who arrested the notorious lady of the night pictured here.

Later, we decided to walk to the Botanical Gardens. Did I mention that it was now 36 degrees, no shade or clouds in the sky. The lack of breeze added to the intensity of the day. The walk was longer than we anticipated.... we had to walk through the parks, across several major streets, and up several big hills. Did I mention that we had no water? Once we reached the gardens though, you could not but admire its beauty. The garden was alive with locals who came with picnic baskets, young couples lying around on the grass, and older people out for a stroll. THe flowers were beautiful and because we were on top of a hill, a slight breeze worked its was across the garden. Denise and I joined others in lying on the grass and soaking up the breeze. Was this purgatory promising us a future in heaven if we were good? After an hour or so, we forced ourselves to leave. On the way we stopped at the Young & Jackson for a light meal and a cold beer. It was there that we got a chance to look at Chloe. Our return to the Airport was difficult. we learnt that our flight was delayed that we would not be arriving in Darwin until two in the morning.

Darwin is a northern city and is in the hottest climatic zone next to the interior. We arrived in the "wet". meaning the monsoon season. Not to panic though. What this means is that it rains, hard and without mercuy, everyday around 4:15. Between October and March, they can get up to five feet of rain. The temperature is about 34-38 degrees, but the humidity makes it feel like 42-46. Our first day, it was decided mutually, would be one of relaxation. Denise went for a massage, had a pedicure, and later in the day we went swimming. I did a little shopping, and as Denise noted, I cannot be trusted alone in an art shop. I did make some new friends and has a good time learning about local aboriginal art. While all of this was fun, you would not believe how difficult every step was due to the humidity. A great Thai dinner in a restaurant built out of pipes on top of several houses was a great way to finish off the day.

Yesterday, we decided that we would take a bus tour an visit Kakadu National Park, a World Heritage Site. If Melbourne was, Darwin hot and humid, Kakadu gave new meaning to being hot. Added to the challenge were the million of flies who decided that, no matter how much bug spray I used, I was going to be an enjoyable meal. Not withstanding this, the park was fantastic. We took a boat down though the yellow river billabong (billabong is a fresh water estuary or flood route from a river that develops in the wet) where there was four to five feet deep as a result of recent rains. By May, the water would be gone and this would become a dry bed. The crocodiles, birds, plants and insects would move on and the topography would become totally different. Note the ball with crocodile teeth marks. These were made by a twelve foot crocodile, estimated to be over 90 years old. Following the boat tour, I enjoyed a Crocodile salad. Denise preferred the Chicken Ceasar. One of the highlights of our afternoon trek through the Outlands was the opportunity to view wall paintings, some of them reputed to be 30,000 years old (dated by scientists). This art tell the story of individuals and clans. We also visited the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Center which was extremely informative. Unfortunately we could not take pictures because the aboriginees believe that you cannot talk, discuss, pictures because the dead must be forgotten for at least three years. All images are destroyed and names removed once a person dies. This we were told was done in their honour.